![]() ![]() I would go 20', or 24' if I had the option. On the 12 ft issue, you should go a minimum of 16' with your opening as even at that length you will have potential issues with hood or rear windshield contact with SUVs on a lift. ![]() The horizontal beam would give you ~14" of extra clearance at the peak.perhaps a non issue if you account for roof slope vs car width/contact points. ![]() I suspect your time vs materials will be quite similar for a ridge vs horizontal beam, particularly if you're only going 12 ft. I figure the LVLs to do the ridge would cost about $1000 if you support the rear with a post. The horizontal design works too.but if you want to go 24" the beam spec is a lot different. If going full length, the rear LVL cross support could be omitted and replaced with a 2圆 (x3) post, so you're only needing four x 18" LVL at 24'. Six x 18" LVL at 24" feet long and you're done for about $1300 in materials to do a ridge and cross support beams. Still less material/cheaper to do the ridge. You could achieve the same by doing 16" x 3 LVL on edge, (on both sides of the garage) to reinforce the walls, but you'd need to tie those at both ends. So a lot of time and $$$ vs the ridge beam and cross supports. That structure would likely need to be skinned on both sides of the cut ties as well with PL adhesive etc. You'd also need an engineer to run the numbers on the stressed skin solution you're proposing as you would likely need some sort of beam (on edge) to cap the cut ties and support the 24 ft of unsupported truss ties projecting 4' into the space. That would work, however your time/materials and labour would be lot less to just do the ridge.and just cut 100% of the ties out. ![]()
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